Things to Know Before Cleansing Crystals in Water

Saltwater rinse, Sound frequency cleansing, moon-water cleansing, moonlight baths, smudging-- and many other ways of cleansing divination tools are passed down from one magic/witchcraft practitioner to another. At some point, you would pick certain cleansing routines based on what your mentor or school of practice had taught you, or simply on what is most comfortable for you.

However, every tool is made up of different materials. And different materials require different ways of caring. One thing that has always made me cringe is the popular notion that you can bathe or "wash" all your crystals. I have seen many crystal-users and enthusiasts confidently share their cleansing routines with generalized instructions. Some would even say that "washing" ALL your crystals is a MUST when cleansing. 

Sure, if they are this confident, then it most likely means that it works effectively for them, right? But what these types of guides often do not take into account is that there are different types of crystals with different hardness levels, purity (mineral concentrations), and water solubility. Some people who are new to crystal-cleansing may not be aware that certain types of crystals can get damaged or worn down faster if often soaked in water. The people who generalized washing or soaking crystals in any liquid either own high quality crystals with high water resistance and hardness level, or they simply change their crystals on a normal basis when they see that it is beginning to crack, discolor, or crumble. And perhaps that's just not something they thought much about, or maybe it's just a natural and normal thing for them, that they forget to put a warning for their audience.

Below are things to consider before you conduct water-cleansing rituals for your crystals/ gemstones;

1. Hardness level: If you have been collecting gemstones for some time now, there's a high chance that you have already encountered the term "MOHS Hardness Scale". Here's a short explanation for it:

"The MOHS Hardness Scale starts with talc at 1 being the softest mineral and ending with diamond at 10 being the hardest mineral. It is universally used around the world as a way of distinguishing minerals. Simply put: the higher the number, the harder the mineral." - gemrockauctions.com

Here's a chart for quick reference:

2. Purity: Did you know that for some crystals and gems, the higher the purity is, the softer or more brittle they actually are? This is another reason the Mohs Scale is important. The scale assumes that the gemstones are at its purest form. You can use it as a reference for the level of purity of the stone you are buying. 

For example, it may not be indicated in the reference chart above, but turquoise falls under number 3 in the hardness scale. This is because the mineral typically comes in chalk form from nature. However, you might notice that some turquoise feel tougher and more scratch-resistant than others despite their respective sellers claiming they are authentic. That's because jewelers and laboratories mix the chalky mineral with stabilizers or hardeners. This is also commonly done with jade. You might notice that some jades have a glassy or marble-like feel to its surface, while some may feel a little "waxy". 

The Mohs Hardness Scale is a great basis for conducting different types of tests to prove a gem's authenticity. You can try a "Scratch test" (the main basis of Mohs scale), water solubility test, or heat tests on your own if you have the time and the courage to put your gemstones to the test.

3. Water Resistance/ Water Solubility: Since some crystals are softer in its purest form while some are harder, certain types of stone are more likely to wear down faster if soaked in water or exposed to anything liquid. For example, with the softness of pure selenite, not only can you easily scratch it with a fingernail, you can also expect it to become mushy and disintegrate in water. If it doesn't do either of the two after a thorough soak or frequent exposure to liquids, it's definitely been "treated" in one way or another.

4. Treatments

• Hardening agents: As mentioned earlier in this post, it is very common for soft and chalky minerals to be mixed with stabilizers or hardeners. However, some jewelers also grind hard gem stones and mix them in different combinations of hardeners. This allows them to sell gems in larger batches and at a cheaper price. Often times, the "diluted" or "treated" gems also undergo other forms of treatments in the process to enhance its appearance;
• Color enhancements: Have you ever encountered certain types of stones that have more vivid colors than others despite appearing "raw"? Or stones that have passed all forms of test but somehow just looks too colorful than the others of the same kind? Sometimes, it's just because the gems are of high quality, or it's the "good piece" from the chunks which the seller has sold to you. However, if the price is almost suspiciously cheap, and the vividness of the pieces seem so uniform (such as those commonly sold in bead form), it has most likely been dyed. 
• Sometimes, the dye treatments were done in a "soak" or spraying process. Which is then followed by heating or airdrying. Gemstones or crystals that go through this type of dying process are the ones that commonly fade fast from exposure to sweat and water.
• Another way jewelers or gem manufacturers color-treat gemstones is by mixing the coloring pigments into the hardeners or "diluted mixture". This type of coloring treatment gives a more durable result; even if the piece is cracked, the color appears solid through and through. With a good mixture, the artificial color will not leak easily even when soaked in liquid or exposed to soap.
• Coating/ polishing enhancements:  Aside from the different smooth "cuts" most high grade crystals go through, another process that gives crystal pieces luster are glass coatings, resin, or other forms of varnish. So if you think the beads or square chunks you got are a little too shiny and reflects more light than its minerals are supposed to do, then it's most likely been varnished. This extra coating can make your gemstones more resilient to liquids and breakage.

I found this chart posted by a jewelry shop on Pinterest. The source of the original post is at the bottom of the chart itself. I think this is a great chart for those only beginning to familiarize themselves with crystal/ gemstone care. 

However, I still recommend keeping in mind the list of factors mentioned in this blog post. After all, as I have mentioned above, many crystals in the market undergo different treatments. 

My Personal Experience of Being Ignorant About the Basics of Crystal Care:

I remember buying my first lapis lazuli bracelet. It was sold for a lower price than most stones of similar kind and size. I bought it right away. At that time, I didn't really care much about crystals and gemstones. I simply bought the bracelet because I loved the colors. Heck, I loved it so much, I wore it almost every day. However, I began to notice the color of some beads slowly fading. The pyrite specks remained, but some beads noticeably turned into a lighter shade of blue.

I went back to the shop that sold it, and they claimed that all the crystals they sell were authentic and even go through a series of tests before they are put up for sale. They didn't provide certificates of authenticity, though. So I did some online research to try to ease my mind. I learned that apparently, lapis lazuli is one of the most commonly dyed gemstones in the market.

I suddenly remembered all the times I would wash my hands with the bracelet on. I also thought about how I often sprayed perfume on my wrists without letting it completely dry before putting on the said accessory. Long story short, it was a lesson learned for my ignorant ass.

I have more experiences like this with different types of stones and crystals. At some point I even had assumptions that as long as a gem is heavy and didn't have any bubbles in it, then it must be genuine. (LOL, I know. That was clearly not very smart of me.) It's really important to read about the type of crystals you are interested in before buying it. That way, you get your money's worth, as well as learn more about the proper ways of preserving its good condition for a longer period of time.

Can you tell which ones are laboratory-made and/or treated?

I'll continue to update this list if I remember more things I should add here. If you think I forgot to mention other important information, please feel free to send me a message about it.